Sunday picnics and vote-buying.

The title of this post might be unnecessarily inflammatory, since we're not 100% certain that what we saw yesterday was vote-buying... but as Jack reminded me, "Let's not forget our context."  We do live in the Jiu Valley.  And for all the wonderful people we've met here and the love I have for this place, it's also got a history of corruption.  I like to forget that.  But yesterday it came rushing back.

It was the first non-rainy day in over a week, so Jack and I decided to celebrate by spending Sunday afternoon hiking in the mountains above Lupeni.  We packed some food in our backpacks and headed out, and as we passed through the neighborhood near the foot of the trail, we suddenly came around the corner to the aroma of grilling meat.  It's not an uncommon smell this time of year, as Romanians love barbeques (another reason why it's awesome to live here)... but this was an uncommon sight, as dozens of people were seated on picnic tables lined up near the side of the road, munching on mici and slurping beer as political posters fluttered overhead.

It's election season.  Next Sunday Romanians head to the polls to elect their representatives to the European Parliament.  Posters are plastered everywhere, though they contain what seems like surprisingly little information to a political junky like me -- a name, picture, and party logo, but no links to websites or position statements.  I've asked some Romanian friends where they go to actually learn about the candidates and what they stand for, and they just stared at me blankly.  "Uh, the news is pretty full of propaganda, so I've just given up," one of our friends from church said bluntly.  I wasn't sure what to ask next after that.

So civic engagement and the democratic process here in the valley remains a bit of a mystery to me.  Really, my knowledge is limited to my conversations with friends and the stories I'd heard of vote-buying happening with beer and sausages (this seems to be an especially common tactic of the current mayor, apparently)... but I never thought I would actually see it.

Until yesterday.

Like I said earlier, perhaps it was just a political rally of sorts.  Maybe people had to pay for their food, or could donate to support this guy's campaign.  Maybe it was a gathering of like-minded supporters, and the delicious aroma and blasting music was simply a way to attract curious passerby to learn more about the candidate.  But judging from the huge number of people who had gathered by the time Jack and I made our way back from our hike, plus the fact that the event was taking place in a back neighborhood, and the fact that no one was actually speaking at the event... it became hard to believe.  I had had every intention of stopping and asking around on our way back from our hike, my political science-y self curious as always, but Jack and I both had such a weird feeling about the event that we just skedaddled, unwilling to lend our presence to the possibly-shady beer & sausage fest.

I dunno.  I hesitate to pass judgment on a situation that I merely passed by and don't really understand.  But I wonder.  I do wonder. 

(For more on corruption and transparency in Romania, check out www.transparencyinternational.eu.)